Easy high-power LED blinking circuit
Here's the "big" idea: put the LED that you want to drive in series with a blinking light bulb. Simple? Check. Cheap? Check. A blinking light bulb has a bimetallic strip inside that, when it gets hot enough, disconnects the circuit until it cools down. When the circuit first turns on, the light bulb and LED turn on. As the light bulb warms up, the strip bends, turning off both the bulb and LED. When the strip cools enough for the strip to snap back, the process repeats and the LED blinks. The basic circuit is scalable, if you use a high-enough power LED and light bulb-- blinking bulbs like this are available in a variety of different sizes.
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For our implementation and demonstration, we have a whopper of an LED: it's a 5 W class Luxeon K2, in "royal blue" (455 nm), type LXK2-PR14-R00, with a typical radiometric power of 575mW @ 1A, and rated up to 1.5 A. These currently cost about $5 each in small quantities. Our blinking bulb is a spare from a set of christmas lights. Estimated cost: $0.15. It's designed to run with about 3V and 100-200 mA, so that sets the scale for how hard we'll be able to drive an LED with this particular bulb. This is a fine way to run a 1W scale LED (or a bigger LED at up to 1 W), but if we really wanted to drive that K2 up to its full brightness we'd need (1) a very large heat sink for the LED and (2) a bigger blinking light bulb, maybe one of the 7W candelabra types. For our voltage source we went tiny and used four AAA batteries, for a 6 V pack. This gives a output current in the range of between 150 and 250 mA, depending on battery freshness and bulb resistance (which is not a constant). Typical AAA alkaline batteries typically have a capacity near 1100 mAh, so at 200 mA and 50% duty cycle, one might expect my little battery pack to blink pleasantly for about 10 hours. Be sure to consult with Ohm to make sure that you don't walk into any traps, and keep a multimeter handy to measure the actual currents and voltages that you're working with. To try it out, we built up the circuit on a piece of perfboard. I soldered the back side of the LED to a 10 mil copper strip to act as a heat sink. The light bulb was not very interested in being soldered but eventually complied. After soldering all two components, it's ready to try out. So how does it work? Pretty well, actually. |
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