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These forums and email are the support methods we offer. We do try our best to respond personally and quickly to posts or messages. I’ll be following up to your most recent email messages shortly.
The article on using the extended firmware is here:If you are building the project up on the IX PCBs, there are several changes you need to make. Did you build your project taking those changes into account?
Are the boards all built up with the modifications required for the extended scanner? Is it possible you have a chip with the default Larson firmware on it?
Regarding stretching: eggs are not uniform, and 150% is a general guideline, not a hard and fast rule. However, you may have your pen motor a little lower than it should be. The tapering at the tips may also increase the impression of it being squished. You could try raising your pen motor a bit and possibly stretching it by a few more percent.Regarding printing off the edge of the page: the EggBot does not know there is an edge of the page, and you can use that to your advantage to make designs mesh well at the edges or to have continuous lines going around the egg multiple times.The current version of the Inkscape extension is v. 2.4.0 dated 12/15/2015. There hasn’t ever been a “Check Motor Voltage” option.
I would suggest that you use the preset hatch for fills, which you can find information about here:Since it gives a continuous line, it is much faster than separate lines, each with a pen down and pen up movement.May 12, 2014 at 10:07 pm in reply to: Simple Question About Power Jack For ATtiny2313 Target Board #21882
We have a couple of jacks of that footprint in our connector category:
To get a feel for what those will look like when drawn by the Eggbot, change the fill to none and the stroke to a solid line. To learn about creating fills for the Eggbot, this is a good starting place:
The screws are 4-40 (yes, imperial) 3/16″ for the gnomon, and 3/8″ for the rest. You can also find the bill of materials on our wiki: http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/bulbdial
The Creating Filled Regions page of the documentation site should be helpful to you.
Thanks for sharing your project! I’ve posted about it on the blog: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2013/musical-menorah/Lenore
First, do not hook them directly to AC! You will need to use an AC to DC converter. It is most efficient to start with a low voltage, something like 3 V if you can find it, but likely 4.5 V or 5 V will be easier to find. Yes, you will need to use current limiting resistors for each of the LEDs. You can read about how to determine the resistor value here:
Are your chips inserted fully into the sockets in the correct orientation? Is your power supply regulated and does it have a center positive plug?
Also, what are the specifications of the power supply you are using?
Hi Chris,Assuming you got the kit version (if not, please correct me) did you insert the chips in the sockets?Lenore