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Sorry; I thought you would have access. I’ll upload it to another host and post a temporary link.
This won’t solve the main problem here, but I’ve just uploaded a new version of the EggBot driver (2.6.4) which reverts to the older pyserial version, so that you should not need to copy the serial version from the 2.5.0 release. Please install this version for further tests.Also, when you try to establish contact with the EBB, please use the “Check EBB version” manual command, for consistency.With 2.6.4 installed, try to contact the EggBot with the USB cable unplugged. Does it still freeze, or give you the “not found” message?Two things to check:
1. Do your other Inkscape extensions work?Try, for example, Extensions > Render > Gear > Gear…2. When your Inkscape is frozen, try unplugging the USB cable– does that make a difference?If you have an EggBot with the white (not clear) chassis, then your model should have the same capabilities as the current basic model– no worries there.
The current version of Inkscape is 0.91– I think that you’ve identified the EggBot software version.To address your issue: I would recommend trying the older version, EggBot software version 2.5.0, available on our GitHub releases page: https://github.com/evil-mad/EggBot/releasesIf you are using an older version of Inkscape (such as 0.48.5), you will need to instead use EggBot 2.4.0.You can download a beta version of RoboPaint with support for El Capitan, here:
Well… Awesome… and baffling?
I’ll dig in a bit, and see if I can figure out what the issue is. I may follow up later in this thread with a new version for you to try. It’s awfully difficult to debug issues that we can’t reproduce locally. :)That’s the first report that we’ve had of 2.6.3 _not_ working.
I do have one thing that you can try, which is rolling back to the earlier version of pyserial:Download the older (2.5.0) version of the EggBot extensions, from here:Unzip that archive, and inside it, locate the “Serial” folder inside the Extensions folder. Then, copy over ONLY that serial folder to your current Inkscape extensions directory, replacing the entire folder. You should be able to test it immediately; you should not even need to restart Inkscape if you’re just replacing the serial folder.Your Inkscape extensions directory is located at: /Applications/Inkscape.app/Contents/Resources/share/inkscape/extensions/You can get there by selecting from the menu bar in the finder: Go > Go to Folder… , and pasting that directory name there.The “cancel” button for Inkscape extensions has _never_ worked; I’m not sure why they have a button there at all.Please download and install the new version of the EggBot extensions for mac, version 2.6.3, and then restart Inkscape. (Version 2.5.0 has never worked on MacOS 10.11.)
You can find the new version here: https://github.com/evil-mad/EggBot/releases/latestWhoa! I don’t think that I’ve ever seen Inkscape itself freeze or crash from anything EggBot related.
Can you please describe anything else that might be relevant about the situation? Is it freezing or crashing? Is it taking XQuartz with it, too?Which MacOS version? Which EggBot software version (Newest is 2.6.3)?Some things that you might try:– Unplug the USB cable if it appears frozen– does that make any difference?– Update your version of XQuartz– Try a different USB cable– Reinstall Inkscape (and if so, the EggBot Extensions)Yes, that should work fine, without any changes. If you’re running anything else off of the 3.3V line, then you should double check to make sure that you’re not pulling too much current. If I understand correctly, it’s only rated for 50 mA output.
Great; glad to hear it. (I was unable to reproduce the issue here.)
And, I’m glad that you were able to fix the issue on the engraver. :)This was never a polarity issue. One of three things is going on here:
1) You have a short circuit somewhere, accidentally connecting two of the LED lines2) You have an open circuit– missing a connection between the LED lines and the (right) LEDs3) A damaged LED. It may still light, but may have very different voltage characteristics than its neighbors, which would cause the effect that you see.If you would like to test with the power supply, apply the 5 V (with a resistor) to lines LED10 and LED2. If you would like to test to see what happens if you remove the red LED without actually desoldering it, you can clip one of its two leads between the circuit board and the LED body, and separate it just a small amount so that it doesn’t touch. Then, touch a new red LED across that point to see the effect of putting a new LED in that location. The LED lead that you cut can be repaired by bending it so that the two cut ends touch, and putting a tiny dot of solder between them.And, if all else fails, you can send the clock — in its current state — back to us for us to take a look at it. If you would like to do that, please use our contact for to request an RMA.I’ll take a look.
Great– I apologize for the hassle; we’ll be packaging that up in a formal installer soon.
The LED that at 3:00 (not the shadow, but the LED) is D102 on the schematic– it does signal lines LED2 to LED10. The other LEDs that are lighting there are on LED2 as well. It is likely that the LED there is either shorted or damaged– I’d suggest replacing it with a spare.
