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Hi JCompi,
Please try this version of the EggBot extensions:Unzip and drag the contents of the “extensions” folder into your Inkscape extensions directory, replacing all files there. (You do not need to reinstall Inkscape.)(The Inkscape extensions directory (folder) is located at:/Applications/Inkscape.app/Contents/Resources/share/inkscape/extensions/
You can get there by selecting from the menu bar in the finder: Go > Go to Folder… , and pasting that directory name there. )Restart inkscape, and verify in the “*” tab of EggBot Control that you have version 2.6.3.The fact that you have intermittent issues suggests that it’s not an issue with the code. This sounds like a hardware problem. It could be an issue with a bad switch, a bad power supply, a cracked capacitor, or with a partial/intermittent short or open circuit in a few different places.
When you bump the USB-TTL connector, you are touching the reset pin (through a capacitor). This can potentially reboot the clock, and that’s not necessarily a problem. The fact that it tends to run backwards– at all –does suggest that the settings aren’t being saved or read correctly, but that could again be due to one of the factors that I mentioned above.The two things that I would check first would be to see if there is a possible soldering issue, and then to see (as I asked about earlier) whether it is keeping time correctly. You might try those. Alternately, you might consider sending it back to us to take a look– I’d be curious because of the strange effects that you are seeing. If you would like to do that, please contact us through our contact form to get an RMA.You are asking about several different things here; I’ll try to catch them all.
1. “Is there a way to convert my “outline” lines to a single penstroke line?”I’m not sure exactly what you are asking. Outlines on art work normally should print as single penstroke lines. If you are seeing multiple lines on the outline, you probably have more than one line outside of each object already, and you will need to remove them.If you are asking how to fill objects with pen strokes, you can use the Hatch Fill extension, or some of the other methods discussed on our wiki: http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Creating_filled_regionsYes, the Hatch Fill (or any other methods of adding lines to fill a region) does add considerable time to the plot. The fastest printing of these (where it can be used) is the Hatch Path Effect method: http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Creating_filled_regions#Hatch_Method2. “The problem is that the entire print, prints upside down.”Under the “Options” tab of EggBot Control there are options to reverse the direction of the two motors. Check both of those to flip the image upside down. (We normally keep those two checked and put the base of the egg or ornament towards the headstock.)3. “The outline printed, then the hatchfill printed but out of register”This sounds exactly like slippage of the egg. Or, possibly, something else loose on the machine. Try printing your outlines over themselves several times: Do the outlines line up over themselves? Well? A little bit off? What you’re probably seeing is a very small amount of slippage that is being amplified by a very much longer plot when you’re filling those outlines.Skipping of steps is an extremely unlikely event (unless you have loose wires or things are going very wrong in _everything_ that you’re doing), and using additional layers won’t make a difference. But it does sound like something is looseSee also our quality troubleshooting guide for additional suggestions and things to check: http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Eggbot_Quality_TroubleshootingYou are describing a number of different issues, so there may be more than one thing wrong here.
Your crystal and caps are likely just fine; it shouldn’t be running at all otherwise.I’ve never heard of a problem with the direction being initially set wrong. However, yes, there is an option to switch. I’m not sure what is causing the bad fade issue– that is one that I haven’t seen before either. One thing to check: if you leave the chronodot off and let it run for an hour, does it seem to be keeping time reasonably well?A second question: Was the clock more-or-less behaving correctly after assembling just the blue and green boards?Great– glad to hear it. :)
The basic idea is that the software uses a “high pass” filter, that only looks at changes in the brightness level. For the hardware and software– both of which are open source –please see the documentation on our wiki.
Hi there!
Sorry to hear about the problem. There isn’t much to go wrong here, so you should — especially with a multimeter handy — be able to find the problem.Take a look at the schematic (available here) to see how things are wired up. D4 is driven by pin 11 of the chip (which is physically located as the pin on the corner closest to D3), through resistor R4. With power to the circuit off, you can use the multimeter in resistance mode to verify that that pin (11) is connected directly to one end of R4 (with near zero resistance), and it has about 16 ohms total resistance from the pin to one lead of LED D4. Similarly, pin 12 of the chip drives D5 through resistor R5.A few other notes:– The resistors are not sensitive to orientation– You should also check that there is no accidental connection between any neighboring pins near these areas of the board.– If everything else looks good– the electrical connections are all good and so forth — it is possible that one or both of those LEDs were damaged during installation. That can sometimes happen with excessive heat or bending of the leads. There’s an extra LED there just in case, but we can spot you another if you need it as well– please contact us directly by email. :)We have thought about this previously in the context of using the EggBot as a rotary axis in a laser. (It should work but we haven’t gotten around to it– mainly for lack of actually needing to laser any round objects.)
My main concern would be that the hardware isn’t designed to resist the force exerted by a cutting tool. The bearings are light duty, and there is some slop in the tailstock bushings. So, you might need to beef it up a bit, or machine equivalent fixtures on the X-carve.Great– sorry for the hassle. Each new version of Processing breaks the old code, and we’ve been waiting for them to officially release the new version for a while before getting back into it.
Have you tried running the executable directly?
For the hatch fill, you can delete the extra lines.
1. Edit > Select all2. Object > Ungroup3. Path > Break apart4. Click on the individual lines that you want to remove, and delete them.You will also likely be able to find some combination of the input parameters that will avoid creating the extra lines.For the StippleGen: Can you please show what the SVG file looks like in Inkscape, before you print it?
The usual process is to1. “Save Stipple File (SVG format)”2. Open that file in Inkscape3. Move the image (optional)4. Print onto the objectAre you doing _anything else_ to the SVG file, that would cause it to do something different?For a photo, you will need to post it online and put the URL here. I suggest using http://imgur.com
Hatch Fill has difficulty with sharp inside corners. Try adjusting changing the spacing, try changing the Tolerance value, and try changing the minimum gap length.Can you please post a photograph of what is happening with stipplegen?
When you are working on the separated image layers, try working on one layer at a time, and hiding all of the others.I am not sure that I understand your question. Perhaps it is the case that you have a filled area, but Inkscape is only drawing the borders?
