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That’s odd; it definitely sounds like a bad connection or bad LED type of problem.
You might consider putting it into the “manual” LED alignment mode, to see if you can leave just that one LED on for a while and observe its behavior as you tap on stuff.>I don’t have TimeRTC. I do have TimeRTCLog and TimeRTCSet.
Then, please install the correct version of the library– the one available for download at the link that I gave you earlier, and is also listed in our documentation. DO NOT use the version from PJRC.I have seen my share of bulbdial oddities– we’ve learned to help debug all of the different things that can go wrong –but I can’t recall seeing anything that someone might describe as “flickering.” Can you say a bit more about exactly what it is that you’re seeing?
D35 and D34 do share a line in common, which is the LED5 signal, originating at the right side of R3. If one or both of those LEDs is electrically bad, it could (I suppose) cause something like this.I’d also suggest carefully checking the area at those two LEDs and around them for possible solder debris such as actual little bits of metal or excess solder flux. And, try stressing the LEDs mechanically (just a little push– not enough to rebend them) to see if that affects it.Well, darn.
I have tried this configuration here (exact, so far as I can tell), and did not have any trouble getting it to work. So at a minimum, I would expect that what you are trying to do *should* work. And that leaves two things left to go wrong: hardware or software. From what you’ve described, it sounds like you’re pretty sure that both are checked out pretty thoroughly, but there still has to be *some* reason that it’s not working.One thing that you might consider is sending it back to us to examine it– if we could verify that the hardware is working, then at least you’d be able to focus on the software configuration to narrow down where the problem could be.One check you can do is to see if the Time example sketches will compile.
File Menu > Examples> Time > TimeRTCSee if that sketch will verify, or if you get the same set of errors.Use the version that is indicated in our documentation, available for download here: http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/Time
The download (Time.zip) includes three different libraries. Move all three of them into your ‘libraries’ folder and restart Arduino.Yes, it looks like you do not have the (correct) time library installed.
You haven’t included the first few lines of the error list– which are the ones that usually tell you what the “root” error was. But, if I remove the Time library (by commenting out line the line that says #include <Time.h>, I do get a similar set of errors.So, it sounds like you either have the wrong version of the time library, or it’s installed in the wrong location.I can’t tell much from the picture– it’s really small –but I can see that auto-reset override is not enabled. I cannot see which pins the capacitor is connected to.
There’s not a lot here that can go wrong. You *need* the reset override to be enabled, the capacitor in place, the chip oriented correctly in the ZIF socket and locked down, and power applied. If you’ve done all of that, and are sure that those portions are all good, what remains is most likely a bad connection somewhere– and there aren’t a whole lot of those to examine.
So, carefully check every pin on the bottom side of the shield, and make sure that there are not any dry, missing, or cracked solder joints.
For testing, Double check that
1. You’ve programmed the Uno with the ArduinoISP sketch, and see the pulsing on the “pulse” LED.
2. You have autoreset override selected
3. 0.1 uF cap between RST and GND.
4. Board selected is an appropriate type (nano w/328P seems to work fine on the ISP shield ZIF socket)
5. Programmer selected as “Arduino as ISP”
6. Your shield is raised up very slightly off of the Uno, so that there’s no electrical connection between the USB
socket and the ISP10 connector on the shield. (Or, use a piece of thick tape over the USB connector.)And then select “Burn bootloader.”
Please contact us directly through our store’s contact form: http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/contact
One other thing: we recommend using the 0.1 uF capacitor (as currently included with the kit). If you use the 10 uF cap, you need to edit the programmer sketch to account for the longer time constant with that big capacitor.
See also: http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Using_The_ISP_Shield_2
I’m not immediately sure what the problem might be, but it certainly isn’t R10; that resistor is only connected to the red ring of LEDs. ;)
* The blue LEDs are controlled through R1 – R6. So, it would take several independent problems– very, very unlikely –at either the resistors or LEDs to cause all of the blue LEDs to not light.
* It is otherwise conceivable that there could be a power supply problem or major short circuit, but the fact that you have 5 V on pin 1 seems to rule that out.
* It is possible that the LEDs are just turned off in the normal “sleep” mode. Try pressing the three buttons on the bottom, one at a time, to see if it the LEDs spring to life.
* It is possible that the microcontroller is not operating because of a problem with the crystal oscillator. Carefully check the solder joints at XTL, C1, and C2. Make sure that C1 and C2 are the correct capacitors, which should have come with a black stripe in the kit.
* It is possible that the microcontroller is not operating because of a problem with the power supply connections to the chip. Check carefully the pins of the chip, to make sure that there are not any “dry,” cracked or missing solder joints there.
* If none of those things helps, it is (unlikely but) possible that there is a problem with the firmware on the clock. If you have access to an AVR ISP programmer, I can help point you in the right direction, or you may want to consider sending it back to us for repair.
The Ostrich Eggbot kit should have come with a more flexible hinge, and the engraver kit comes with a stiffer hinge. You can get additional stiffness by stacking hinges.
The pen arm height is *very* adjustable, perhaps in some ways that you haven’t thought of. There are two positions to mount the servo motor assembly, as described in Step 33 of the assembly instructions. If you are nearly bottomed out in position, you should definitely be using the lower pair of holes.The servo adjustment points that I was referring to are the software settings that you use to adjust the servo motor positions.The correct position of the pen motor in the Ostrich Eggbot chassis depends on the shape of object that you are engraving. For an object with (roughly) spherical geometry, it should be at the top position, and for increasingly elongated objects, it should be lowered.One thing that you might check: Is the device that you are trying to program exactly the same model as the one that you’ve selected?
The Uno comes with an ATmega328P; make sure that your chip is actually an ATmega328P, and that the Bano selection is also for the Nano with the ATmega328P.Hi Michael,
For a baseline, have you been able to use the ISP shield to burn the bootloader?-Windell
