Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
To move all of the layers at once, first use the commandEdit > Select All in All LayersThat will allow you to move all of the layers at the same time. While they are selected, you can also use the commandObject > Transform…in order to stretch all of the layers at once. However, it may be better to first stretch and position the photo BEFORE tracing it, so that you do not need to move the layers separately.>Another question, how can I say to the pen that star the print of the layers in the same point?I’m afraid that I do not understand what the question is. Can you please rephrase?
It still sounds like you’re trying to solve a number of unrelated problems here.
For the case of the Peggy board, if you would like to send it and the programming interface to us, we could test them for you. Otherwise, you should try and establish _some_ baseline of either the programmer or the Peggy that is working.Can you please the test that I suggested with the Uno and Duemilanove _with the same cable_ to see how that behaves? If it still fails, do you have any reason to believe that the Duemilanove is still functional?
For programming the Peggy 2, can you please say what your actual configuration is there? As you have described it so far, there isn’t enough information about the hardware configuration to begin to guess what the actual problem might be.Have you ever reprogrammed any of these boards by a mechanism other than using the bootloader?You are trying to debug many things at once, and that is a recipe for making things difficult.
Please use a single computer (I suggest one of the Macs– generally a little more forgiving), and start with a fresh copy of the Arduino IDE. Try to upload the “blink” example sketch to your Uno, and make sure that it works.To make sure that it’s actually uploading code successfully, try changing the “delay(1000);” lines to read “delay(250);”.Then, with the _exact same setup_ — same computer, same USB cable, same copy of Arduino and so forth — try uploading to your duemilanove. The only thing that you should need to change is the selection in the Boards menu.It is not clear to me exactly what you are trying to do, nor exactly what the problem is.
You have said that you are trying to get a Peggy board working, but that you’re using an Arduino Mega2560 on it. The Peggy boards do not come with an Arduino Mega2560, nor a socket for one, nor any other obvious way to attach one to it. So, it is not whatsoever clear what your actual hardware setup is.
Some types of hardware setups *can* interfere with programming– so you might consider disconnecting the Mega2560 from the Peggy, to see if this is actually Peggy related, or just an issue with programming with the ‘2560 board.You are having a problem with uploading code to the ‘2560 board. However, you have not said how you are trying to upload the code. The fact that you are mentioning the AVR ISP and AVRISP MKII leads me to guess that you are using an external programmer (perhaps an AVR ISP programmer of some sort?), rather than direct uploads via the more standard USB/bootloader interface, but you have not said. It is not clear what hardware you are using to connect the Mega2560 to your computer.
The fact that you mention “boards.txt” suggests that you are trying to upload from within Arduino, rather than directly from the command line… but you have not said so directly. Assuming that you are trying to upload from within Arduino, then please follow the steps of the Arduino troubleshooting guide. I would also suggest starting over with a fresh copy of the Arduino IDE, one where you have _not_ edited the boards.txt file. If you are not using Arduino (and you are programming from the command line or another program), then you should ignore the boards.txt file.
The fact that you can upload to both an Arduino Nano and Uno suggests that your computer and basic programming methods are sound. If you are using the USB interface to program these from within Arduino (guessing here– again, you haven’t really indicated what your hardware, programming, or software setups are!) then that does suggest that your USB drivers are working properly.
If you find the same sort of behavior (these two boards always work, these two boards never work, etc) across multiple computers, that may indicate that the boards that the boards (or at least, the part of the hardware that allows them to be programmed) may be damaged.
Why are you moving the layers?
I’m afraid that I do not understand the problem. Can you please try again to explain what is going wrong?
I’ll take a look at it.
If you could please either e-mail us directly or use the contact form, that would let us have your e-mail address for sending it back to you.You can see our e-mail address here: http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/about ; you likely also have it available as part of your EggBot materials.
Can you send us the file via e-mail?
EggBot users exist at all levels of skill; no need to worry.Do you have a high-quality version of the logo that you can link to?
Are you using this with the watercolorbot, or some other machine? The EggBot doesn’t normally draw on paper.
Yes, that will work fine: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2014/larson-scanner-modding/
Potentially yes, but the Larson Scanner cannot take 12 V directly. You’ll need to reduce this to 5V or lower (e.g., with a voltage regulator) in order to be able to power the Larson Scanner.
I think that we will probably *not* add a jumper for the capacitor. It’s not for every board version, and it is sometimes counterproductive. For this particular case, the real issue is that the instructions *should* say to not connect the ISP shield to the Arduino until after the ArduinoISP sketch is uploaded. I’ve updated the instructions to reflect this.
And, no offense taken– thank you again for bringing that to our attention.
