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Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar

CandyFab Sign

In February we gave a sneak preview of our project to construct a home-built three dimensional fabricator. Our design goals were (1) a low cost design leveraging recycled components (2) large printable volume emphasized over high resolution, and (3) ability to use low-cost printing media including granulated sugar. We are extremely pleased to be able to report that it has been a success: Our three dimensional fabricator is now fully operational and we have used it to print several large, low-resolution, objects out of pure sugar.

Coil Screw, dodecahedron


The general idea of our build process-- that of stacking solid two-dimensional printed layers-- is actually common to most solid freeform fabrication methods. Our machine employs what we believe is a fairly novel low-cost technology to accomplish this: selective hot air sintering and melting (SHASAM).

The printing process begins with a bed of a granular printing media that has a fairly low melting point. Using a narrow, directed, low-velocity beam of hot air, we selectively fuse together the print media, forming a two-dimensional image out of the fused grains. We then lower the bed by a small amount, add a thin flat layer of media to the top of the bed, and selectively fuse the media in the new layer, forming a two dimensional image that is also fused to any overlapping fused areas in the layer below. By repeating this process, a three-dimensional object is slowly built up. At the end of the build, the bed is raised to its original position, disinterring the fabricated model, while unused media is reclaimed for use in building the next object.

Our process is very much like a low-cost version of Selective Laser Sintering, or Selective Laser Melting, which are commercial processes used for plastic and direct metal printing. Rather than using a high-power CO2 or YAG laser ($5k and up), we use hot air created with the help of a $10 heating element.

Trading off a laser for a heat gun gives us lower resolution but at much lower cost, and is typical of our approach to 3D fabrication. We have taken a very different approach from most other fab projects (e.g., Fab@Home and RepRap) in that we have a comparatively large printable volume, but less need for precision and high resolution. Our fabricator is not designed for prototyping machine parts; it's designed for fun, for large-scale 3D illustration, for sculpting, architectural models, and other applications where resolution isn't the only important factor. We estimate the total cost to build a machine with similar capability to be in the neighborhood of $500. Realistically, the cost of any project like this is not a fixed number, and since recycled components are involved, the actual cost could range up or down by a factor of two depending on how resourceful the builder is.

There are a number of different print media that may be suitable for use with SHASAM fabrication: many types of plastics and waxes have low melting points and are available in granular or powder form. Beyond that, there are a number of interesting foods-- chocolate chips come to mind-- that can be used with the process However, one of the most interesting possibilities is using table sugar.


Granulated Sugar: low cost print media

Sugar As we mentioned in our preview of the printer, our printing medium of choice is granulated sugar. Sugar is a particularly good medium because it's non-hazardous, non-toxic, non-intimidating, kid friendly, water soluble, rigid despite having a low melting point, and as an organic, may be suitable for making forms for investment casting. It's also very easy to obtain and very inexpensive: you can buy it at grocery stores, and in large bags at places like Costco for about $0.37/pound.

The price of sugar compares quite favorably to the polycaprolactone (a low melting point polyester) used by the reprap project which costs about $4.00 a pound. As it turns out, even $4.00 per pound is quite inexpensive compared to the media for many other solid freeform fabrication systems.

Beyond just lowering the media cost of a given fabricated object, using a low-cost medium can be leveraged to make large-volume printing both practical and economical. Our fabricator has a maximum printable volume of 24 x 13.5 x 9 inches (61 x 34 x 23 cm)-- 2916 cubic inches, or 1.7 cubic feet, and holds a little more than 100 pounds of sugar, which costs about $37 retail.

Screw, dodecahedron Of course, the direct media cost in the models can also be an important consideration. Consider this model of a wood screw that we fabricated out of sugar: It's 20 inches long, with the head diameter of 4.5 inches, and it weighs about 2.5 pounds, so the total media cost is about $0.93.

For a fun exercise, look up how much it would cost to make a similar model on a prototyping industry standard $20,000 Dimension ABS 3D printer-- if it could print objects anywhere near that big.
(Hint: it's more than $0.93.)



Mechanics and Electronics

The big idea of the mechanical system is that we take a hot air gun and move it around a bed of sugar, selectively fusing a set of points before lowering the bed of sugar and adding a new layer.

Our hot air gun is based upon the design of a hot air rework station. However, we have heavily modified it, and learned how to make an equivalent system inexpensively. The heater design now essentially consists of a 500 W, $10 air heating element and a small air pump-- a $5 aquarium air pump works well. At a minimum, use of the heater element requires a housing to be constructed, the air pump and a control system that can provide a the chosen amount of power to the heating element. We have seen that the element can be driven directly from 120 V, with duty cycle controlled by an inexpensive digital relay. The heater element is hardly new technology; it's the baby sister of the one in your hair dryer. None the less, it's well designed and quite suitable for this application.

The hose clamp Thus far, we are still using the bulky original housing from the hot-air station itself, but plan to design a replacement head and nozzle when time permits. The existing housing has a slightly odd shape so we made this mount to attach it to the carriage of our X-Y motion control system.

The original head was not designed to operate at both high temperature and low air flow; it tends to overheat easily. One improvement that we made that has been hugely beneficial is to mount a cooling fan right next to this structure, keeping it cool on the outside while in use.

The X and Y axis motion control systems are based on belt drives and quadrature-encoded motors recycled from two old HP plotters, a large one and a small one. This is one of those places that your resourcefulness can save you a lot of money: The number of old-generation inkjets and plotters out there is truly stunning-- go find a couple, and make them do something useful again.

In order to control the quadrature-encoded motors that came on our printer parts, we designed custom digital servo circuits that cost about $10 each to build. The circuits are based around a high-power analog output stage and an AVR microcontroller that accept position commands. The position commands are sent using a higher precision version of standard hobby servo PWM control code, where the position command is encoded in the width of a positive pulse between one and two milliseconds long. We will be writing up and releasing the hardware design as well as the source code (under the GPL) for these servo controllers in the near future.

The hot air gun is mounted to the belt-driven carriage on the Y axis of the printer. The Y-axis belt-drive system is mounted, on one end, to a linear bearing that slides along a steel rail. That bearing is pushed by the belt-driven carriage on the X axis, through a rubber band low-cost flexible rubber coupling. The other end of the Y-axis belt-drive system is supported by a free-rolling rubber wheel from the hardware store.

hello, world For our operational tests and a demonstration of the XY motion control system last month, we mounted the hot air gun to the system and placed a piece of bread where the sugar would normally go-- allowing us to make CNC (computer numerically controlled) toast, demonstrating successful control of both the hot air gun and the X and Y motion control systems.

Wooden parts

The fabricator primarily consists of a large wooden base, which was designed in Sketchup. It was designed to hold the X-axis belt drive system on the front side and provide a back platform for the rubber wheel to roll along. It also provides elevation above the floor and holds the box that defines the walls of the build region.

Here you can see the model as drawn in Sketchup, and the base that we constructed from that model. If you want to take a closer look, you can download the model here. (144 kB ZIP archive of sketchup .skp document)

Box and piston

Box and piston (raised)

Drawer slides, riveted together.

servomotor - 15

Since the vertical axis must be able to easily raise up the bed containing all of the sugar-- potentially more than 100 pounds-- it needs to be a bit tougher than a printer carriage. The vertical motion is constrained by a five-sided wooden box with a floor that can move up and down on a set of drawer slides. The motor for the vertical motion, which pushes up on the floor of the wooden box, is actually a modified one-ton electric automotive jack that has been converted into a (large scale) hobby servo motor.

Besides the three motion axes, there is also a heater controller that is used to control the power delivered to the hot air heating element. Together, the four controllers (X,Y,Z, Temperature) require four axes of computer control.


Canvas Liner

With the canvas liner

Wrapped around the wooden base is a flexible canvas liner that prevents sugar from leaking out in strange places and assists in recovering unused media. Canvas is a good choice for this application because it is strong, durable, woven tightly enough to contain granular media like sugar, and washable. We got ours at a fabric store for $7/yard, in 60-inch width, and we needed about five yards. If you're trying to save costs, you might be able to do better elsewhere, e.g., buying canvas drop cloths intended for painting.

BoxCorner

The liner was designed to hold the sugar in place during forming, and to channel the excess into buckets for reuse after raising the platform. The canvas liner fits snugly around the bin, and the inner part folds up accordion-style to accommodate raising and lowering the piston. The pleats are reinforced with interfacing to assist with folding. The upper edge and the bottom surface are attached to the bin with velcro. The outer part of the canvas fits around the frame, and tapers in to meet the bin, forming funnels that catch sugar and feed it into buckets below.

Pinning 2

Figuring the sizes for most of the pieces was straightforward working from the measurements from the sketchup model. However, the tapering portions for the funnels were cut large, pinned in place, and then sewn and trimmed.

Sewing

Seams were generally folded and reinforced in such a way that the sugar flows downward easily. Sewing was done with a home sewing machine with heavy duty thread usually used for denim.


Software

There are several different layers to the software needed to control a three-dimensional fabricator, and they are implemented in our system with a variety of different techniques. We begin with a 3D model generated in (or imported into) POV-Ray, and then render the POV-Ray image as a set of two-dimensional bitmaps of slices through the image. The bitmaps are generated in such a way that they directly represent which points will, or will not, have the printing medium fused. We then take the bitmaps and use them to "draw" with our hot air gun at all of the black points on the bitmap.

Here is one of our 3D models, along with one of the generated 2D bitmap slices through that object:

You can download the 3D model, both the POV-Ray document, the rendered and sliced versions here. (53 kB ZIP archive)

Operating the 3D fabricator requires precision motion control in three directions, which is potentially difficult. Computer control and interface are provide through a MAKE Controller. Presently we are using an old student version of LabVIEW to control the MAKE Controller-- reading in a 2D bitmap, parsing it into a simple rastered toolpath, and converting that to position commands, sent to the MAKE Controller using UDP packets. Labview is, of course, not free software, and any suggestions about open-source solutions that would do the job nicely are welcome. (PD and Processing seem like possible directions, but we'd like to hear what you think in the comments.)

While the Make Controller has many remarkable capabilities, we are hardly taking advantage of them here; it is strictly acting as a computer-controlled device to output four servo-motor control code signals. Budget conscious builders may want to instead consider using a dedicated servo controller, like this Micro Serial Servo Controller, from Pololu, a precision 8-channel servo interface starting at $17.95.


Making things with the fabricator

Now that we've got all our parts together, let's fab some sugar objects. The effective horizontal resolution of our fabricator is presently limited to around 2 mm by the very one-point-oh design of our hot air nozzles, but can in principle be made much higher even while using granulated sugar as the print medium. The resolution is determined by a number of factors, including the air nozzle size, the air temperature and flow rate, and (obviously) the position step size in the three directions. Printing at a higher resolution takes longer, so we have actually been operating it in a low-resolution mode in order to produce some sample objects-- quickly-- before the Maker Faire. All of the objects on this page were made with pixel (well, voxel) size 2.5 x 2.5 x 2.7 mm (10 x 10 x 9 DPI), where the 3D models have been properly quantized to account for the larger vertical step size. Even at this low resolution setting, the total number of printable points in our fabricator is over 2.6 megavoxels.

Thin Line

Here is the first step: Drawing a thin line with the heater element, fusing the sugar together. The width of the line drawn in the picture here is about 3 mm, and so is a little wider than our minimum pixel width. For each pixel that we want to fuse, we hold the hot air gun over that point for a period of time, typically between one and three seconds, depending on air temperature settings and the thickness of the layer that we want to fuse. (We should be able to reduce that time with a better hot air nozzle design.)

meltspot

This is how a newly melted spot looks in the middle of building up a 3D object. The melted region is about 3/4 of an inch across, and has a glassy surface of amorphous sugar. The top layer is about 1/8 of an inch (3 mm) thick and is uniformly colored a light golden brown-- caramelized in the melt process. The right half of the spot appears darker because that half overlaps-- and is fused to-- the dot which is slightly to the side of our top dot but on the layer below. It appears darker because we are looking into a deeper layer of colored sugar. (Click through to see the image larger.)

Toolpath

Because the hot air gun blows air continuously, it leaves a shallow trail wherever it goes. Here, you can see the trail indicate the dumb-as-a-rock toolpath of the heater over the sugar surface. Excess fusion has not been an issue so long as we move quickly between the points where we stop to melt the sugar.

Printing

We are nearly done printing this layer, which is near the midpoint of our coil sculpture-- very much like the bitmap slice that we've shown above. All of the spots have a glassy surface, but a few of them have been covered up by a dusting of granulated sugar.

Coil

The completed toroidal coil sculpture, one of the first objects that we made with our new 3D sugar printer. We've hardly begun to scratch the surface of how large of an object can be made in this machine; four of these could be fabricated at once, fitting within the printable volume simultaneously.

Pixels

If you look at all closely, you can see the pixelated nature of our fabricated object. The bulk of the material is solid, glassy, lightly caramelized sugar. It feels and acts very much like regular glass. The outside surface is covered by loosely attached sintered sugar (white), and can be removed or smoothed over by hand.

Screw Threads

This shows the beginning of our making the model of a wood screw. This is one of the early layers, where just the edges of the threads are visible.

partial screw

This layer is nearly halfway through the model of the screw. It's a philips-head screw, so the fact that we can only see a single slot indicates that we're not exactly at the middle yet.

Exhuming

Here is what it looks like after we finished printing the screw, and raised the bed of sugar up to be able to get at the model. Even after raising the piston up, some digging is still required to get the last ten pounds of sugar off the top. (This part is actually quite fun.)

Objects

Finally, here is a group of three objects that we've made out of pure sugar: A little dodecahedron, the toroidal coil, and the twenty-inch-long wood screw



So how does it taste?

Like praline, no doubt.

While our process has incredible potential for making interesting food, we are still in the early stages of prototyping and we have not yet worked with the sugar under conditions that could be construed as proper food handling procedures. We are instead at this point treating the sugar as a relatively safe (but not edible) industrial chemical and prototyping medium. There is no fundamental obstacle to food-safe 3D fabrication-- however we still need to carefully audit the system and make sure, for example, that the air pump for the hot air does not contain any substances that could contaminate food.


See it at the Maker Faire

Our completed fabricator will make its public debut next week at the 2007 Bay Area Maker Faire. (Our Maker Faire program entry is here.) We will be bringing the machine itself and some of our fabricated sugar objects. We've decided to spend our time at the faire showing off the printer and its parts, rather than actually using it to fabricate objects. One reason is safety; we have discovered that the First Law of Laboratory Work (Hot glass looks exactly the same as cold glass) holds true for molten hot sugar as well.

CandyFab Sign In order to make the fabricator look a little nicer for the Maker Faire, we made this combination front cover and sign that labels it the "CandyFab 4000." Yes it's a silly touch-- but there is a certain benefit to overnaming things. (For example "Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories" sounds a lot better than "Our Kitchen.")

We made the sign from recycled and scrap acrylic for a total cost of about $20, cutting out the letters and segments on a laser cutter before cementing them in place.

You can find more pictures of the CandyFab 4000 in this flickr photoset.

Update 7/25/2007:
We have just launched CandyFab.org. If you're interested in designing, building, operating, or owning your own CandyFab, this is the place to start:
CandyFab.org


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Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar | 93 comments | Create New Account
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Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Windell on Wednesday, May 09 2007 @ 04:47 PM PDT
Unfortunately, we don't have much free time that we can spend on fabricating objects in the week remaining before Maker Faire-- Among other things, we have to prep the machine for the trip!

If we did have a few days to spend making things, I'd want to make (1) a few *giant*, stackable sugar Lego bricks, (2) an architectual model of the Parthenon, complete with removable lid, and (3) a ball-and-stick molecular model of a diamond crystal lattice. It might also be useful to try making things out of different substances, like wax and chocolate.


---
Windell H. Oskay
drwho(at)evilmadscientist.com
http://www.evilmadscientist.com/
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Wednesday, May 09 2007 @ 05:54 PM PDT
I am visiting your site regulary, and your projects rock my sock.
Please build me one of these and sell it to me ;)

Anyway, keep up the great work.
I am sure there are many mad evil science-tools you can sugarize with this! :-)
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Wednesday, May 09 2007 @ 09:09 PM PDT
Oh. My. God.

I love you! Please tell me when this will be on sale!

~ Cybele from Candy Blog
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Wednesday, May 09 2007 @ 11:44 PM PDT
Wonderful! Wonderful! I love thinking about how it stacks cross-sections. Enthralling-1.
Impressive, other ideas
From: Wikkit on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 04:21 AM PDT
Amazing! Incredible! Stunning! Congratulations on getting it working.

The scale of it is really impressive, especially considering the cost. To improve the resolution, will you be blowing less but hotter air, or do you think it's strictly a nozzle issue? Isn't the Z resolution limited by how much you blow the loose sugar around?

It's neat that you're using POVRay to create the files. I've used it for engineering uses as well, similarly to what you're doing; it's hand to be able to take an orthogonal slice through a model and have a nice diagram at any desired resolution. I was using Perl to create the files, including the venerable Sierpinski tetrahedron, the classic spring-going-down-escalator, and Koosh balls. The last of which would be a good test of the self-supporting strength of the sugar. I can send files and scripts if desired.

Oh, and I hope you keep calling them pixels. We use the word pixel to describe 1-D ("the image is 40 pixels wide") and 2-D ("it's a five megapixel camera"), so there's not really any reason to use a neologism for 3-D or 4-D.
Ideas to make your life even more complicated :>
From: JavaFiend on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 08:01 AM PDT
Ideas to make your life even more complicated:
1. Add food color nozzles create stripes and or layers.
2. Add a vacuum head to facilitate the creation off hollow objects.
3. Multi media format; ex. hollow sugar rabbit with a chocolate "filling"

Ideas to make the system work "better"?
1. Add a filling system to help automate the process ( sounds like you have to add the sugar by hand at each new Z layer)
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: C N C N o w ! on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 09:23 AM PDT
I´ve been dealing with CNC machines the last several years and I found a combination hard to beat as far as motion control on a budget is concerned: TurboCNC (DOS based, free software, able to run on anything that has a co-processor, even an fairly old 386. I regularly use a 486 DX-100 and it works like a charm. TC can be run from a floppy disk only, depending on the size of the file) + stepping motors (taken from printers) + a cheap chopper driver (or the simplest phase drive, both easy to build). One can control up to eight axes with TurboCNC. How is that ?

Download TurboCNC from www.dakeng.com

I love your work !

Jorge Lourenco Jr.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 09:45 AM PDT
What are you using to spread the sugar as each layer is added?

I've been thinking of a similar project, but using fine drops of water to fuse plaster, and I'm stumped for a method to add new layers of plaster, without disturbing the previously added parts.

Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 09:47 AM PDT
Wow... I wonder if you could make something similar on a smaller scale using Technical Lego and Mindstorms... The main limitation would seem to be creating a suitable hot air blower. Also, on a smaller scale, the raising/lowering of the base could probably be done manually.

(Tim)
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 10:53 AM PDT
How are you applying the successive layers of sugar after each level? Not by hand, is it?
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 11:04 AM PDT
I was curious about how the new layer of sugar is added after each printing round. Are you doing it by hand?
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 11:06 AM PDT
Dang! Anonymous 7:53 scooped me while I was trying to figure out how to post a comment!
Guide
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 01:28 PM PDT
Will you be releasing a 'how-to' guide for those who want to make one at home? I'd love to give it a go...
  • Guide - From: Windell on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 01:45 PM PDT
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 04:25 PM PDT
This is wonderful.

A suggestion on your nozzle, try a welding supply store. A MAPP or Acetyline nozzle might be what you are needing. They are designed to focus and handle hot gasses, and may do a bit to bring your pixel size down. Ask the welding expert, tell him what your requirements or needs are. (You may need help choosing one, there are thousands of designs. Each for a specific use)
Fine vs Extra Fine Sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 04:39 PM PDT
Wow. Super cool. (or hot?)

Have you experimented with different media, like for example extra fine sugar. My wife uses it when ever she makes fudge and there is a noticible texture difference between the extra fine and regular. I wonder if it would help get you smoother results.

-Tim C
Tensile Strength of Objects
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 05:01 PM PDT
This is amazingly cool.

Out of curiosity, exactly how sturdy is the final product?

Also, it looks to me in the pictures that there is residual left-over sugar on the edges of the object. Is that due to the melting or can it be blown off with pressurized air (or would that compromise the integrity of the object)?
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 07:32 PM PDT
just two thoughts:



1. blowing some food coloring as powder or liquid from one side against the hot air stream of the hot air gun? e.g. with some cheap spray guns for each color mounted around the nozzle of the hot air.
of course it won't work with subtractive colormixing but exporting rgb-colors to cmyk??
because of the caramelised sugar it will look all a bit yellowish.

2. did yout ever thought about the possibility to use water (or other colored liquid see 1.) prior to heating up and melting the sugar. might work faster and could giive a more transparent color of the finished work.


found your project today on www.povray-forum.de
great work, i like it a lot.
keep on going

siggi
POV-Ray Question
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 10 2007 @ 08:56 PM PDT
Ok, I am not ashamed to say that I can't figure out how to get layer pictures out of POV-Ray.
Any tips?

I can model in Solidworks and spit out pretty much any file format.

Thanks!
Chris
  • webkinz - From: Anonymous on Monday, October 29 2007 @ 12:38 PM PDT
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Friday, May 11 2007 @ 02:12 AM PDT
as some others have asked, im still confused about how you get the layers stacked up? and does one layer connect to another, or are they still hot when they are put together??

this is probably the COOLEST project I have EVER seen.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Friday, May 11 2007 @ 06:51 AM PDT
Absolutely incredible. Bravo.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Friday, May 11 2007 @ 12:00 PM PDT
You might want to experiment with other sugars and sugar-like substances. Those with lower melting points may allow you to make items without getting the "carmelized" color. Dextrose and fructose seem pretty easy to find (try home brewery suppliers or bulk baking ingredients) and run about $1/lb in 50lb bags. Sorbitol is harder to find and more expensive, but melts at right around 100C.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Sunday, May 13 2007 @ 04:06 AM PDT
In a future demo, I suggest printing a model of the sucrose molecule.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Stephen Dann on Sunday, May 13 2007 @ 08:33 PM PDT
Just wanted to say that I'm featuring the sugar prototype fabricator (can I call it a prototypewriter?) in my marketing management distribution class as a demonstration of new distribution technology. Sure, I have no idea who prints and ships sugar art right now, but that's not the point. One of these things in the lair, and you're set to download and mass produce little sugar...sugar things I guess.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Tuesday, May 15 2007 @ 12:02 PM PDT
People who make gingerbread houses have figured out which sugars look the best after melting. Check with a local cake and candy making store to buy sugars that will have much less of a color cast when cooled and hardened. If you are willing to spend more, you can get sugar that will look much more like glass.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Tuesday, May 15 2007 @ 12:50 PM PDT
How about powdered sugar to increase resolution, and one of those new powerful lasers to keep from blowing sugar everywhere? Or heck, you don't even need lasers, you could focus light from a cheap(ish) high-power light bulb using a lens? I realize the build difficulty will increase with each increase to the complexity and size of the "printing" mechanism, but still, might be something to look at.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Wednesday, May 16 2007 @ 05:03 AM PDT
Although relatively expensive, hama beads might make a pretty cool medium.
software improvement
From: Anonymous on Thursday, May 24 2007 @ 07:31 AM PDT
First of all congratulations for your project. Its great! I stumbled upon it in search for a cheap way to make sculptures I designed with a computer. I'll surely follow your improvements and cant wait to build one myself.

As a suggestion to your software problem. I think with vvvv you can load a model, generate a cross section and calculate the xy positions for the printer and send it with udp from within a single software. and its free: http://vvvv.org. if you are not familiar I with the sofware I would offer you to patch a sample.

best regards, eno.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: p07gbar on Sunday, May 27 2007 @ 04:01 PM PDT
You could make models out of the maplin Polymorph found here:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?TabID=1&ModuleNo=97325&doy=27m5
This could be brought in bulk and used instead of sugar.
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Merlin on Thursday, May 31 2007 @ 12:32 PM PDT
Hey, you're able to create some another effects with this machine, even more complex than just complex forms!

I mean the idea of fusing a sugar chain, consisting from rings that are connected only in chain-style, but not fused together. And to fuse something more complex than a simple chain. Even a doll house with a chained curtain can be fused!
Discrete vs. continuous path
From: Anonymous on Saturday, June 02 2007 @ 11:11 PM PDT
Is printing in pixels/voxels the only way to go, or would it be possible to have your nozzle trace out lines and arcs in the sugar?
Increasing Detail and easier Control
From: Anonymous on Sunday, June 03 2007 @ 07:29 PM PDT
Great Project. Found it at blenderartists.org.
Well, many before me talked about powdered sugar. That would be one way. What about letting the sugar melt by only the heater-element being very close to the surface, without the air-stream? OR... do the syringe-approach from fab@home? Anyway, it's the coolest Rapid-'Prototyping' machine i ever saw.
Now for the controllers: you said your linear-units are from old HP-Plotters. Why don't you use their onboard-controller to get the motion done? You lose that much detail by preprocessing the fine Render-Geometry into pixelgraphics.
There must be a software that converts the cross-sections of a render to hpgl/2 (at least, i hope so)


(my 2 cents)
rubicon
PS: öäü (i'm german, sorry for my english)
Chemical Crystal Formation
From: Anonymous on Saturday, June 16 2007 @ 08:48 PM PDT
Crystal formation is the same for water, glass, and sugar.

If you make the room hotter so that it is warmer, but still below the melting point of sugar, each melting spot will solidify slower. The slower the sugar crystallizes the more organized the crystals are. Then it will be a lot stronger and resistant to damage. I suppose you could even sand it a bit.

Incidentally, that is also how they temper glass. They melt it and allow it to cool very slowly so that it forms a large homogenous crystal. Sometimes we buy, uh, "freezies" and put them in our -80'C freezer. They freeze so quickly that the water-sugar inside cannot form even, homogenous, or large crystals. Instead they "nucleate" to a large degree making the frozen treat very powdery or "creamsicle-ish" to eat.

That's the principle, anyway, how you apply it? That's up to you!
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Monday, June 18 2007 @ 09:09 PM PDT
Since you are printing in a voxel/pixel format vs vectors, it seems like the easiest way to make a "faster" machine without sacrificing precision, is to parallelize. That is, modify the carriage so that it only moves 1/4 each way, and use an array of heat guns. Obviously the cost goes up, but the complexity only slightly so. You could do 16 identical but tiny peices at a time, or push one object over all 16 guns.

Speeding creation time would seem to be the deal maker for making a commercial product. Imagine making sugar sculptures for center peices for a Wedding, making 30 identical large objects would likely bring tears of boredom to the operator, but with 16 nozzles, maybe less so.
Why not Laser?
From: Anonymous on Friday, July 27 2007 @ 01:44 PM PDT
Laser wouldn't blow sugar around and would have much smaller heating area for finer resolution, no?
  • Why not Laser? - From: Anonymous on Thursday, November 29 2007 @ 07:46 PM PDT
Solid freeform fabrication: DIY, on the cheap, and made of pure sugar
From: Anonymous on Thursday, December 13 2007 @ 11:23 PM PDT
I don't get it.

If it's melting the sugar on top, how exactly is it building the three-dimensional shape of it again? I can possible see the sugar melting and going to the bottom to form a possible 3D shape, but I don't understand why one side of the shape is not completely flat.

For what I understand, rapid prototyping is about building something from the bottom up. This has the odd appearance of building from the top down. Could someone explain in more detail why it's 3D?